BIRGITTA HELMERSSON ∙ Zero Waste Cropped Shirt PDF Sewing Pattern


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Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no pattern pieces to print out and tape together.

Zero Waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that all the fabric is used. With the exception of some small templates, there are no large pattern pieces to print out. The cutting plan/templates document for the ZW Gather Dress requires printing of 5-6 pages in A4/US Letter Paper. 

Designed by Birgitta Helmersson, this is an oversized cropped shirt made using Zero Waste Pattern Cutting. It has a dropped shoulder, neck band and button front closure. Length of bodice is easily adjustable to your preference. The width of the garment is variable depending on the fabric width you use. Comes with 2 simple hack options, one for gathered sleeves and the other hack has front darts and a longer back.

This is a 'one size' pattern which comes in two size ranges. Due to the zero waste nature of this pattern some design details may change between sizes, select your size to see more.

Sizes ∙ EU 36 - 52

Skill level • Suitable for beginners.

Suggested fabrics • Ideal in a woven linen or cotton with a weight of approx 150-200gsm. 

Fabric requirements (recommended fabric width 135cm - 155cm) ∙ Size 1  - 90cm / Size 2  100cm

Trims needed • matching thread / 3 X 20mm button (depending on your chosen project)/ Optional: lightweight fusible interfacing for neckband if using lightweight fabrics

We love working with this method for 3 reasons:

1. More flexibility: This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.

2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns : Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.

3. Less fabric and paper waste: Without having to print full scale paper patterns for all pieces you save on a lot of paper, and you will have little to no fabric waste during the cutting and sewing process!

See more: Patterns
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