BIRGITTA HELMERSSON ∙ Zero Waste Coat PDF Sewing Pattern ∙ NEW
Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no pattern pieces to print out and tape together.
Zero Waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that all the fabric is used. With the exception of some small templates, there are no large pattern pieces to print out. The cutting plan/templates document for the ZW Gather Dress requires printing of 5-6 pages in A4/US Letter Paper.
The Zero Waste Coat Sewing Pattern by Birgitta Helmersson is an unlined unisex oversized coat with a batwing sleeve, round collar and patch pockets. The short coat has a front button closure and the long coat has a front button closure and waist tie. Also comes with tips on how to cut a lining if you want to add this.
This pattern comes with 2 options, a short and a long coat. The short coat is suitable for beginners and up, the long coat is more suited to mid-intermediate sewers, however if you make the short coat as your first project and progress to the long coat for your next one this would work well as a lot of the steps are the same.
Sizes ∙ EU 36 - 44
Skill level • Advanced beginner.
Suggested fabrics • Ideal in a mid heavy weight wool coating. This can also work in a lighter wool or cotton drill for more of a light jacket or trench coat style, you will need to make sure you fuse part of your collar if you choose a lighter weight fabric.
*This coat is cut against the grain (cross-wise) which means that the width of your fabric determines the length of your coat. The recommended fabric width is 145cm to 160cm.
Fabric requirements (fabric width: 145cm - 160cm) ∙
Short coat: 140cm / 55 1/2 inches (approx 1.55 yards)
Long coat: 200cm / 78 inches (approx 2.2 yards)
Trims needed • matching thread / 25cm fusible interfacing (for lighter weight fabrics only) / 3 X 20mm - 25mm buttons / 3 metres bias tape this can be used to finish some of the seams on the inside and is a really nice finish when using heavy coating. You can use either a pre cut binding from a roll or cut your own using a lightweight cotton or linen / Elastic or a length of cord. This is required if you are doing the short coat hack to gather in the back hem. The size of elastic is determined by how much you want to bring in the hem.
We love working with this method for 3 reasons:
1. More flexibility: This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.
2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns : Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.
3. Less fabric and paper waste: Without having to print full scale paper patterns for all pieces you save on a lot of paper, and you will have little to no fabric waste during the cutting and sewing process!