The ASSEMBLY LINE • Front Pleat Shirt Sewing Pattern (XL - 3XL)
Printed sewing pattern • Sizes XL–3XL • Skill level: Intermediate
The Front Pleat Shirt Sewing Pattern by The Assembly Line is a modern, architectural take on a classic shirt, designed with clean lines and thoughtful detailing. With its cropped, boxy silhouette and sculptural pleats, this is a statement piece that still feels effortlessly wearable.
The design features two angled pleats at the front and a V-shaped pleat at the back, adding structure and subtle volume to the shape. Short sleeves can be worn as is or rolled for a more relaxed look. The pattern also includes optional extension pieces, allowing you to lengthen the shirt or create a version with a concealed button placket for a more refined finish.
Versatile and distinctive, this shirt works beautifully styled with trousers or skirts, making it a standout addition to a contemporary handmade wardrobe.
Perfect for:
- Modern shirts with architectural details
- Intermediate to advanced sewists looking to develop their skills
- Statement pieces that remain wearable and versatile
- Lightweight fabrics with movement and drape
Skill level • Intermediate
Pattern details:
- Printed sewing pattern with clear, step-by-step instructions
- Sizes XL–3XL included (see separate listing for sizes XS–L)
- Cropped, boxy shirt silhouette
- Optional pattern extensions for a longer version
- Option to sew with a concealed button placket
Suggested fabrics: This pattern works best in lightweight to medium weight woven fabrics such as:
- Cotton lawn and poplin
- Silk
- Linen
- Crepe de chine
- Wool crepe
Fabrics with drape will highlight the pleat details, while crisper fabrics will emphasise the sculptural shape.
Fabric requirements • Please see last image for fabric requirements.
You will also need:
- Matching thread
- Fusible interfacing
- 7 x 10mm shirt buttons
Sewing tips:
- Take time when constructing the pleats to ensure they are sharp and evenly pressed
- Use a fine needle for lightweight fabrics to achieve a clean finish
- Consider practising the concealed placket technique on scrap fabric before sewing
Why we recommend this pattern: The Front Pleat Shirt is a beautifully designed piece that balances structure with wearability. It’s a rewarding sew that results in a truly distinctive garment.
Part of our curated collection of The Assembly Line sewing patterns, designed for modern, wearable wardrobes.
Browse our full collection of sewing patterns for modern handmade wardrobes.

