How to Choose Sewing Patterns for Dressmaking

Choosing the right sewing pattern is one of the most important steps in any dressmaking project. The pattern determines the structure, fit, and overall style of the garment, and finding the right one can make the difference between a piece you wear often and one that stays in the wardrobe.

With so many patterns available, it can sometimes feel difficult to know where to begin. Understanding a few key things, such as skill level, garment type, and fabric recommendations — makes the process much simpler and more enjoyable.

1. Start with the garment you want to wear

The best sewing projects begin with thinking about how the finished garment will fit into your wardrobe.

Consider:

• What kinds of clothes do you wear most often?
• Are you sewing for everyday wear, work, or special occasions?
• Do you prefer relaxed silhouettes or more structured garments?

Patterns that reflect your existing style are far more likely to become wardrobe favourites.

Many sewists find it helpful to build a small collection of patterns that work well together  creating a handmade wardrobe of pieces that can be worn across different seasons.

Wide-leg trousers such as the Alba Pants by Tessuti are a great example of a versatile pattern that can be sewn in different fabrics for different seasons.

2. Understanding sewing pattern skill levels

Most sewing patterns include a recommended skill level, which helps indicate the techniques involved in making the garment.

Common levels include:

Beginner
Simple shapes with minimal fitting and straightforward construction.

Confident beginner
Projects that introduce techniques such as darts, facings, or simple closures.

Intermediate
Patterns that may include more detailed construction such as set-in sleeves, collars, or more structured garments.

Choosing patterns that match your current experience helps keep projects enjoyable and rewarding.

Shirt patterns such as La Chemise by Atelier Brunette are a great intermediate project once you’re comfortable sewing basic garments.

3. Consider fit and sizing

Pattern sizing can vary between designers, so it’s always worth checking the size chart and finished garment measurements before choosing your size.

Things to look for include:

• Bust, waist, and hip measurements
• Ease (how fitted or relaxed the garment will be)
• Length and proportion

Many sewists make small adjustments to patterns to achieve the fit they prefer, and developing these skills gradually can make a big difference to how garments feel to wear.

4. Fabric recommendations matter

Every sewing pattern includes suggested fabrics for a reason — the designer has tested the pattern to ensure the garment behaves as intended.

For example:

• Lightweight cottons work well for shirts and blouses
• Linen and cotton blends are ideal for many everyday garments
• Softer fabrics like viscose create more fluid silhouettes

Choosing fabric carefully can completely transform how a pattern looks and feels once sewn.

5. Pay attention to construction details

Looking closely at the pattern description can give you a sense of how the garment will come together.

Things to check include:

• Type of closures (buttons, zips, elastic waistbands)
• Sleeve construction
• Pockets or additional details
• Lining requirements

Understanding these details helps you decide whether the project suits the kind of sewing experience you're looking for.

6. Why we curate sewing patterns carefully

At The Draper’s Daughter, sewing patterns are selected with wearability and thoughtful design in mind.

We focus on patterns that:

• are enjoyable to sew
• result in garments that work in everyday wardrobes
• reflect a modern, minimalist aesthetic
• come from designers with clear instructions and well-tested construction

Many of the patterns we stock are ones we would happily choose to make ourselves.

Some sewing books are designed around the idea of building a coordinated wardrobe, such as Ann Ringstrand’s Sew 10 Matching Key Styles for Your Wardrobes.

Next Steps

If you're ready to start a new project, you might like to:

• Browse our sewing patterns
• Explore our dressmaking fabrics
• Read our guide on how to choose fabrics for dressmaking

Choosing patterns is a skill that develops over time, and experimenting with different styles and fabrics is part of the enjoyment of sewing. 

If you're new to dressmaking, our curated pattern collection is a good place to begin