BIRGITTA HELMERSSON ∙ Zero Waste Bell Jacket PDF Sewing Pattern

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Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no pattern pieces to print out and tape together.

Zero Waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that all the fabric is used. With the exception of some small templates, there are no large pattern pieces to print out. The cutting plan/templates document for the ZW Gather Dress requires printing of 5-6 pages in A4/US Letter Paper. 

This is an oversized jacket with a rounded collar, front button closure, 3 front patch pockets, an inverted box pleat at the centre back neck, and wide sleeves that are perfect for fitting all of your winter layers underneath. Designed by Birgitta Helmersson, the Bell Jacket sewing pattern gets its name from the bell shaped sleeve, created with several darts sewn into the hem of the sleeve. This jacket is fully lined.

It also comes with 2 hack options, a shirt with a square collar and a quilted version, un-lined. Both of these have online tutorials for the extra steps. 

There are 2 size options for this jacket with slight design variations between each. The size TWO has 2 panels at the centre back body and has more of a dropped shoulder than the size ONE.

Size One

Width 145cm / 57" = max bust 96cm / 38", max hip 101cm / 40"

Width 150cm / 59" = max bust 101cm / 40", max hip 108cm / 42"

Width 155cm / 61" = max bust 106cm / 42", max hip 111cm / 44"

Size Two 

Width 145cm / 57" = max bust 133cm / 52", max hip 142cm / 56"

Width 150cm / 59" = max bust 138cm / 54", max hip 147cm / 58"

Width 155cm / 61" = max bust 143cm / 56", max hip 152cm / 60"

Skill level • Intermediate.

Suggested fabrics • Ideal in a wool or heavy weight denim or heavy cotton drill. Recommended linings, something with a bit of weight that has a nice drape. Required lining width is very specific and is based on the OUTER  fabric width you are using.

Trims needed • matching thread / mid-weight fusible interfacing / 150cm X 40mm to finish centre front bodies and back neck facing / 4-5 X 20mm buttons

We love working with this method for the following three reasons:

1. More flexibility: This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.

2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns : Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.

3. Less fabric and paper waste: Without having to print full scale paper patterns for all pieces you save on a lot of paper, and you will have little to no fabric waste during the cutting and sewing process!


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