Birgitta Helmersson • Zero Waste Tie Top Sewing Pattern Review
I was so impressed with my first zero-waste sewing project, the Block Pants by Birgitta Helmersson, that it wasn’t long before I was looking for my next make. Inspired by a version of the Tie Top, also by Birgitta, that I spotted on Instagram, I knew that this was the style for me.
The Zero Waste Tie Top offers plenty of flexibility, with both high and low-neck options and three different garment lengths to choose from. The design features an attached neckband that extends into a tie, which can be worn at either the front or back neckline. The pattern also includes instructions for adding side splits, gathering the sleeves with a cuff for a more finished look, or sewing a sleeveless version, making it a surprisingly versatile wardrobe piece.
The sample that first caught my eye (by @miraipattern) was the long-sleeved version with a low neckline and the tie worn at the front, finished with cuffs on the wide sleeves. I loved how elevated this detail made the silhouette feel. Wanting to echo the lightness of that version, I chose our Metallic Polka Dot Cotton Voile in Black by Hokkoh, a semi-sheer fabric with a delicate texture.
This fabric is narrower than the width recommended for the pattern, so I did need to adapt the layout slightly to make everything fit. That said, the planning aspect is part of what makes zero-waste sewing so satisfying, and I really enjoyed working through the challenge of using the available width efficiently.
As with my first Birgitta Helmersson make, the cutting instructions were clear, thoughtfully written, and supported by helpful illustrations, making the plotting process straightforward to follow. Despite being fairly delicate and semi-sheer, the cotton voile was stable to sew and not at all slippery or difficult to handle.
Because this is a zero-waste design, the finished measurements are closely tied to the width of your fabric. I based my choice on the measurements of another top I love the fit of, and while my version is perfectly wearable, using this voile I think I would have preferred a little more width through the body. It’s a helpful reminder that fabric width plays a big role in the final silhouette with zero-waste patterns, and is worth considering when choosing both size and fabric.
Although the design looks quite architectural, the construction itself is very approachable if you follow the plotting carefully. The garment came together smoothly, and the whole project was a real pleasure to sew. I love that this beautiful blouse is created entirely from a series of rectangles — such a simple concept, yet incredibly effective.
It’s definitely a pattern I’ll return to. I’m already thinking that a sleeveless version would be perfect for summer and a lovely addition to my handmade wardrobe.
The Zero Waste Tie Top is available in both PDF and Printed format, so you can choose whichever suits your preferred way of working.