BIRGITTA HELMERSSON ∙ Zero Waste Block Trousers & Skirt PDF Sewing Pattern
Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no pattern pieces to print out and tape together.
Zero Waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that all the fabric is used. With the exception of some small templates, there are no large pattern pieces to print out. The cutting plan/templates document for the ZW Gather Dress requires printing of 5-6 pages in A4/US Letter Paper.
This is a zero waste pattern which comes in 10 sizes, XS-6XL. It has an attached waistband with inserted elastic and front pleats for a slightly tailored look. There is a feature seam line on the back legs, this placement is higher or lower on the leg depending on your chosen size. The side seams sit slightly into the front pant and there are concealed in-seam pockets at the front and patch pockets at the back. This pattern comes with one hack, a skirt with patch pockets and an elasticated waist.
Sizes ∙ Suitable for hip measurements between 86cm / 34" and 152cm / 60"
Skill level • Suitable for advanced beginners.
Suggested fabrics • Woven fabrics. Medium-heavy weight woven cotton and linen. Light -mid weight wool.
Fabric requirements • Please see last image for fabric requirements.
Trims needed • matching thread / 50mm wide elastic, refer to cutting plan by size for measurement / 30mm wide contrast bias binding strip to finish the inside of waistband
We love working with this method for the following three reasons:
1. More flexibility: This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.
2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns : Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.
3. Less fabric and paper waste: Without having to print full scale paper patterns for all pieces you save on a lot of paper, and you will have little to no fabric waste during the cutting and sewing process