BIRGITTA HELMERSSON ∙ Zero Waste Tier Dress PDF Sewing Pattern
Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no pattern pieces to print out and tape together.
Zero Waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that all the fabric is used. With the exception of some small templates, there are no large pattern pieces to print out. The cutting plan/templates document for the ZW Gather Dress requires printing of 5-6 pages in A4/US Letter Paper.
Designed by Birgitta Helmersson, the Zero Waste Tier Dress Sewing Pattern is made up of 3 separate cutting plans which can be mixed and matched to make 4 different dresses. A short dress with thin straps, long dress with thin straps, short dress with sleeves and long dress with sleeves. If you are not using the sleeve then the strap for the dress will need to be cut from a contrast or remnant fabric.
This dress has an above the bust self lined panel, the A-line dress below this is gathered on. There is also a bottom gathered tier that can be added to the dress and a gathered sleeve with an elasticated hem. The sleeve is hand sewn to the strap and underarm after the dress has been fully made. There are 2 different pattern layout options for this dress, which vary slightly depending on what size you are using.
Sizes ∙ This pattern comes with 10 size options, suitable for bust measurements between 81cm / 32" and 143cm / 56"
Skill level • Suitable for advanced beginners.
Recommended Widths ∙ Widths and yardage requirements vary depending on your chosen size. If you want to work with a fabric outside of the recommended widths there are alternate pattern layouts provided in the instruction booklet. See Garment Views / Yardage Requirements image for more details.
Suggested fabrics • This works best with lightweight woven fabrics in cotton, linen, silk or viscose. A weight of approximately 80-160gsm is ideal.
Fabric requirements • Please see last image for fabric requirements.
Trims needed • matching thread / Optional: lightweight fusible interfacing for front and back bodice lining (B + D) / Binding to finish underarm / View A + C: remnant fabric to cut straps / View B + D Binding to finish sleeves, elastic for sleeve hem.
We love working with this method for 3 reasons:
1. More flexibility: This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.
2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own patterns : Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.
3. Less fabric and paper waste: Without having to print full scale paper patterns for all pieces you save on a lot of paper, and you will have little to no fabric waste during the cutting and sewing process!
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