BIRGITTA HELMERSSON • Zero Waste Jumper PDF Sewing Pattern
Please note: This PDF sewing pattern uses zero waste pattern cutting and comprises of instructions to draw shapes directly onto your fabric. With the exception of some small templates, there are no pattern pieces to print out and tape together.
Zero Waste pattern cutting is a bit like a puzzle. It is a method of pattern drafting where you utilise a length of fabric end to end by strategically planning your pattern pieces so that all the fabric is used. With the exception of some small templates, there are no large pattern pieces to print out. The cutting plan/templates document for the ZW Tie Top sewing pattern requires printing of 5-6 pages in A4/US Letter Paper.
The Zero Waste (ZW) Jumper has an oversized body with a curved hem and a slim sleeve making it perfect for layering. The body size and sleeve length are determined by the fabric width you use. The crew neck features a ribbed neck band, and the sleeve hem has a ribbed band attached when using narrower fabric widths. The ZW Jumper comes with tips to adjust the sleeve circumference for extended sizes, as well as a hack to make a smaller jumper size with a narrower fabric.
This sewing pattern is considered a one size garment. The finished garment size is determined by the fabric width and the pattern is suitable for widths between 145-175cm / 57-69". This size chart shows the MAXIMUM hip size suitable for each fabric width and includes a generous amount of ease. The forearm of this pattern is slim fitting and the size chart indicates the MAXIMUM forearm circumference suitable for all fabric widths, allowing for a small amount of ease. You can find tips on how to adjust the sleeve for a larger forearm measurement inside the instruction booklet.
Sizes ∙ EU 36 - 52
Skill level • Suitable for beginners.
Suggested fabrics • the ZW Jumper is suitable for both woven's (non-stretch) and knits (stretch). This jumper works really well in a mid-heavy weight brushed cotton fleece/sweater fabric (you can often find this fabric type in quite wide widths). It also works great as a lighter weight top in a thinner jersey fabric. If you want to use a non woven fabric choose something in a light - mid weight in a fabric that has a bit of drape to it.
For the neck and sleeve band choose a cotton ribbing that has a nice amount of structure to it. See 'Trims needed' for more on ribbing requirements.
Fabric requirements (recommended fabric width 145cm - 175cm) ∙ 80cm / 31.5" (this gives a finished garment length of 60cm / 23.5" when worn. To adjust the length you will need to also adjust your fabric usage. Instructions on how to do this are included in the pattern).
Trims needed • matching thread / one length of cotton bias binding to finish the facing, 4cm x 32cm / one length of ribbing to finish the neck, 8cm x 43cm / View 2: two lengths of ribbing to finish the sleeve hems, 16cm x 20cm
We love working with this method for 3 reasons:
1. More flexibility: This method allows for easy changes such as using different fabric widths and making simple fit and design changes yourself. Using sewing patterns that fit into a zero waste square or rectangular block is a very efficient way to work. It means that it is easier to patchwork together remnants or use left over fabrics you already have lying around.
2. An easy way to learn to self draft your own sewing patterns : Working this way will help you to start building a toolbox of skills, and you will learn an alternative method of self drafting your own sewing patterns, which are super easy for beginners to understand.
3. Less fabric and paper waste: Without having to print full scale paper patterns for all pieces you save on a lot of paper, and you will have little to no fabric waste during the cutting and sewing process!
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