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Drop Waist Dress Sewing Pattern Review - a COS Inspired Dress Made in Nani Iro Double Gauze

Posted on July 18, 2025

As soon as I discovered the Drop Waist Dress Sewing Pattern by The Assembly Line, I knew it would be the perfect starting point for recreating a dress I’d admired from COS (pictured below). With its clean lines, relaxed silhouette and modern proportions, this dressmaking pattern captures the same understated, minimalist aesthetic that makes COS pieces so appealing.

You can browse our full collection of sewing patterns for modern handmade wardrobes to discover more inspiring designs.

Below is a photo of the COS dress that inspired this make...

COS drop waist dress inspiration for sewing the Drop Waist Dress pattern

The Drop waist Dress includes three sleeveless variations: a top, a short dress, and a longer midi-length version. Each style features soft gathers at the front neckline and a delicate keyhole opening at the back, finished with a narrow ribbon tie. The dress versions also include practical in-seam pockets, and the pattern instructions feature a simple hack to add a dramatic ruffle hem if you’d like to create a more statement silhouette.

For my version, I chose to sew it in one of our beautiful Nani Iro organic cotton double gauze dressmaking fabrics. I’d been waiting for the right project to use this fabric, and the Drop Waist Dress felt like the perfect match, its simple structure really lets the fabric shine.

Drop Waist Dress sewn using The Assembly Line sewing pattern in Nani Iro double gauze fabric

I made a slight modification to the ruffle hack included in the pattern, opting for a deeper ruffle to better match the proportions of the COS dress I was inspired by. To do this, I traced the pattern pieces for the top version and added 9cm in length so that the gathered skirt would sit just on the hip.

KNeckline detail of the Drop Waist Dress sewing pattern by The Assembly Line

The pattern gives you the choice of using pre-made bias binding, and I was initially tempted to use a plain black binding which would have contrasted beautifully with the fabric. But in the end, I decided to make my own bias binding from the same Nani Iro organic cotton double gauze. It was my first time making it, and I’m pleased with the result—though next time I think I’ll increase the pre-folded width by around 7mm for a slightly more generous finish.

Drop Waist Dress sewn using The Assembly Line sewing pattern in Nani Iro double gauze fabric

As with every Assembly Line pattern I’ve tried, the instructions were clear and easy to follow—even the optional ruffle hack was well explained. The Drop Waist Dress is rated suitable for advanced beginners, which I think is spot on. It came together smoothly and was a real pleasure to sew.

Drop Waist Dress sewn using The Assembly Line sewing pattern in Nani Iro double gauze fabric

I’m really happy with how my Drop Waist Dress turned out—so much so that I’m already planning my next one. I think it would look fantastic in one of our Atelier Brunette cotton poplins, which would really enhance the volume and shape of the ruffle.

Drop Waist Dress sewn using The Assembly Line sewing pattern in Nani Iro double gauze fabric

Sew the Look:

Inspired by a COS dress, this version of the Drop Waist Dress was sewn in a lightweight dressmaking fabric that highlights the relaxed silhouette of the pattern. If you'd like to recreate this dress, you can explore the pattern and fabrics used in this project below.

The Drop Waist Sewing Pattern by The Assembly Line
Nani Iro Organic Cotton Double Gauze fabrics

Browse our full collection of sewing patterns for modern handmade wardrobes.

Browse our curated range of dressmaking fabrics available to buy online in the UK.

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